Nuestro programa de visitantes y voluntarios ofrece una excelente oportunidad de pasar una tarde, un fin de semana, etc.. con nosotros.
Son muchos los estudiantes y apasionados de las mascotas que han venido a pasar unas horas en nuestro hospital y ver todas nuestras actividades: cómo se vacuna una mascota, como se anestesia, etc…
Anímate. Sergio, Sara, Kevin (Instituto de Enseñanza Secundaria Luis García Berlanga de San Juan de Alicante) y muchos más se lo han pasado muy bien con nuestros veterinarios.
visita nuestra web del Programa de Visitantes y Voluntarios, aquí tienes toda la información.
Los reptiles carnívoros como su nombre indica tienen una dieta prácticamente omnívora con un porcentaje de proteina en su dieta mayor del 60%. Qué mejor que alimentarlos con presa mejor viva y entera, con todo su completo valor nutritivo, manteniendo su instinto de caza ( también se les puede alimentar y acostumbrar con carne previamente congelada). Obviamente las necesidades dependen también de la especie, pues no es lo mismo alimentar a una pitón de 25 kg de peso que a una tortuga acuática de 15 gramos. Los requerimientos en individuos jóvenes son algo mayores y se les puede completar la dieta como alternativa a darles presa vivas , con harinas de carnes, alimentos piensos o enlatados, trozos de hígado, carne, pescado, huevo, etc… No olvidarse que mejor comida es la que se parezca a la de su hábitat natural. Según la especie y tamaño podemos ofrecerles todo tipo de insectos ( lombrices, escarabajos… ) u organismos acuáticos ( renacuajos, gambas..)
Feeding:
In addition to classic corn seeds, wheat, sunflower, etc., fruits and vegetables are a daily requirement. Raw carrot, apple, pear are good examples (try grated carrot so as to accustom the bird for the first days). Sinusitis and other diseases are very common and often brought about by a seed only diet. Seed only diets are deficient in many vitamins, especially vitamin A.
Encourage your bird to ‘work for its dinner’ by placing seeds in wire mesh or netting, this helps imitate the effort and behavior required in nature. It is preferable to obtain seed mixture which is supplied from a closed container, bulk seeds from shops can be manhandled by the public and can become a vehicle for infectious agents. Once a week, offer the bird dried fruits and for a special monthly treat try honey or fruit sticks. Weight control is important and Parrots often show signs of obesity, especially if overfed the fattier sunflower seeds or peanuts or given too many treats. A bird should not be given cheese, macaroni, pizza, hamburger and numerous human food… it will shorten its life. Chocolate must always be avoided, a small piece of chocolate can be fatal within minutes. Other foods such as avocado and onions are also too toxic for a birds system.
There are commercial feeds such as croquettes that contain many nutrients and food groups your parrot needs and enjoys, but always ensure that these are supplemented with daily fruit.
Drinking water should be changed daily and always kept clean. Do not medicate the water with vitamins or antibiotics unless absolutely necessary. Drink containers should be placed away from the perch so as to avoid contamination from excrement. From time to time offer your bird fruit juice (not citrus) either on
a spoon or with a syringe as an extra source of vitamins, your bird will probably see this as a game. Plumage should be kept clean and hygienic by allowing the bird to bathe. Access to a water filled bathing tub should be provided for 20 minutes every day (even in winter). Secondary wing feathers can be cut in order to prevent flight and is a common practice for parrots that spend a lot of time outside of the cage. However, this is not recommended as one of the beauties of these animals is to see them fly.
Health and veterinary requirements:
When a bird is first acquired, it is necessary to have it de-wormed and for your veterinarian to perform a stool test on the bird. This test needs regular repeating if your bird is housed with other birds, or even if other birds are nearby or around the house (eg sparrows). Anti-parasitic sprays are also recommended where birds mix with others. If not exposed to other birds, you do not need to de-worm or spray so regularly. Vaccinations are not normally necessary unless there is an epidemic in the area.
Parrots can transmit numerous diseases to humans. Common allergic reactions to feathers can affect humans, however more serious conditions such as ornithosis/chlamydiosis can also be transmitted. Newly acquired birds should be blood tested in order to establish any presence or incubation of such diseases.
Basic hygiene, such as washing hands after handling the cage or the bird needs to be adopted, as should the avoidance of mouth contact with the bird (especially the beak). It is very common for bird owners to allow ‘kissing’, but this really should be avoided. Faeces and urine are mixed in the cloaca and are expelled together. The stool colour may vary in the same animal, this being dependant on the amount and type of fruit eaten. Stools should be removed from the cage daily as microorganisms grow on them which are dangerous not only to the bird, but also to the health of people living in the household. It is essential to use an absorbent cage liner (cat-litter is toxic and to be avoided) the most recommended type of liner is plant based.
This article was published in Costa Blanca News.
En este post indico algunos consejos para tener bien alimentada a nuestras iguanas
La alimentación de las iguanas ( concretamente la Iguana verde: Iguana iguana ) es principalmente vegetal al ser animales herbívoros. Viven en zonas arbóreas de hábitat tropical ( Centro y Sudamérica ) y es frecuente verlas en el suelo para beber o completar su dieta con pequeños insectos o animalitos…aunque hoy en día en cautividad se las esté humanizando con una dieta omnívora.
Obviamente las necesidades o requerimientos van a depender del estado metabólico del animal, de la edad, época reproductiva, estación del año, etc.
Una iguana recién nacida ( con unos 6 a 9 cm de longitud) y durante el crecimiento el primer año ( crecen 1 a 2 cm por mes ) y alcanzar la edad adulta va a necesitar unos requerimientos especiales durante su desarrollo y se debe de buscar la dieta más equilibrada y variada posible, consistiendo siempre al principio en alimentos ricos en calcio, vitaminas y minerales.
Su dieta base mayoritariamente debe consistir en verduras 70% ( tipo hoja y hortalizas , legumbres, gramíneas ), frutas variadas (20%) y un 10% en granulados preparados, suplementos y proteína animal.
Próximo: Alimentación de la iguana ( y II)
El hurón es una mascota cada vez más habitual. Conocer sobre su reproducción nos ayuda a no llevarnos algún que otro susto.
La diferenciación sexual: las hembras son más pequeñas que los machos y la cabeza la tienen algo más redondeada, los machos presentan una distancia del ano a los genitales mayor que en las hembras, estando situado el pene justo bajo la cicatriz umbilical, por lo que se dice que tienen presentación abdominal del pene. La morfología penenana simula un sacacorchos en su extremo y en su interior aloja un hueso, el hueso peneano, presente también en otras especies como el perro.
El apareamiento es bastante violento en esta especie. Está inducido por el fotoperiodo positivo por lo que la época de celo está entre el solsticio de Diciembre y el de Junio, al aumentar las horas de luz se activa su ciclo sexual. La hembra puede sufrir varios celos durante estos seis meses en los que la vulva se vuelve muy edematizada simulando un grano de café. Los machos por estas fechas sufren agrandamiento testicular al tiempo que se produce la formación de los espermatozoides. El macho muerde a la hembra en la nuca durante la copula, y puede llegar a causarle heridas importantes. Estos rituales junto con la cópula son necesarios para que la hembra ovule, de no producirse la ovulación la hembra puede sufrir un proceso denominado hiperestrogenismo que puede conllevar serios problemas. Si está esterilizada y la vulva está turgente puede ser indicativo de problemas hormonales o de la existencia de algún resto ovárico. Mejor consultar con un especialista.
El macho no ayuda en absoluto a la crianza de los cachorros, es más, en la naturaleza, la hembra no volvería a verlo, cuidan ellas solas de la camada.
La gestación dura un mes y medio aproximadamente y el número de pequeños, nacidos indefensos, puede ser muy variable con una media de ocho. Al nacer las crías pesan alrededor de 10g. Ciegas y sordas, están cubiertas por un pelo sedoso que en el caso de los animales con coloración «salvaje» es blanco.
La lactación artificial de los neonatos es bastante inviable si no han pasado los primeros días post parto con la madre, en cualquier caso se les puede administrar leche maternizada de perro o gato enriquecida con nata. Es relativamente fácil que alguno de estos pequeños muera en los primeros 4 días de vida pues nacen muy débiles. Suelen destetarse hacia la semana 6ª u 8ª y la independencia de las crías se da entre 10ª y 12ª semana tras el parto.
La pubertad en las hembras llega durante la primavera siguiente al parto por lo que es un periodo que abarca de los 6 a 12 meses de edad. En machos ocurre otro tanto.
This family of exotic birds includes, naturally the True Parrot, but also within this group we have parakeets, macaws, lovebirds, etc.
These kinds of birds are becoming increasingly popular as household pets, to some extend taking preference over cats and dogs. Much of the
popularity for birds can be attributed to the low
The Parrot (psittacines).
This family of exotic birds includes, naturally the True Parrot, but also within this group we have parakeets, macaws, lovebirds, etc.
These kinds of birds are becoming increasingly popular as household pets, to some extend taking preference over cats and dogs. Much of the
popularity for birds can be attributed to the low maintenance and lesser attention required from owners, however there are minimum requirements owners of these pets should know. The best way to care for any parrot is to mimic their natural habitat as much as possible. 90% of diseases are due to poor care by their owners, especially in terms of food and psychological conditions to which caged birds are subjected to.
Purchase
When purchasing a parrot it is important to obtain a detailed invoice from an accredited breeder/importer. This invoice needs to quote the ‘CITES’ (Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species) number of the bird and the documentation should be retained for the life of the bird. The ‘CITES’ number is a unique code for each individual bird and is proof the bird has been legally obtained in accordance with international law which governs this protected species. Any bird that does not have a ‘CITES’ identification is illegal and may be seized by the authorities at any time. Although the bird should be fitted with an identification ring, it is highly recommended that a microchip is implanted for added security.
Sexing
Is it male or female? Visual examination tells us little about the sex of a parrot. Two methods are available for determining the sex, firstly a DNA test can be performed, alternatively an endoscope can be employed to show the internal genitalia. An endoscopic examination will also indicate the maturity of the bird. Sexual maturity is usually reached at 3-4 years.
Lifespan
Typically large parrots live for many decades. Birds receiving a good diet and care can reach 40-50 years of age or more. Smaller parrots such as budgies, lovebirds, etc, can reach 20 years.
Character
Parrots are often ‘one owner pets’ which can be seen in its acceptance, or not, of holding and touching. If you are not paying enough attention they may enter a phase of boredom and depression that can accelerate the emergence of diseases and behavioural problems, including pecking or selfmutilation. Sometimes a parrot develops such a strong bond with an owner that an absolute dependency is established. In such cases the absence or lack of attention from an owner can prevent a bird from eating or drinking and may result in days of self-starvation, feather pulling and continuous vocalization. Parrots are a sociable species and if an owner cannot give adequate time or attention a partner bird may be a good alternative. Do they talk? In general, all parrots have the ability to imitate human (and other) sounds. It all depends on the bird’s location and environment. A parrot can imitate a bark or a meow if living with a dog or cat. Teaching a parrot to talk requires patience, but it is not impossible.
In a domestic habitat
The cage should be large enough so that the bird can fully extend its wings without restriction. Do not place the cage where there is too much sun or drafts. Avoid heating and air conditioning. Never place it in the kitchen or where toxic fumes are emitted, they are quite sensitive to tobacco smoke. Furnish the cage with branches or leaves so as to provide some replication of a natural environment.
It is advisable to allow the bird out of the cage several times a day, again this is more natural than being in a cage all day and avoids behavioural problems such as depression or pecking. Do not allow a bird to chew or pick metallic objects or ornaments which might
contain lead, zinc or other heavy metals which are a common cause of poisoning. It’s highly beneficial for a bird to ‘take the sun’ a few minutes a day, but always direct sunlight in measured quantity… not through glass! Provide perches or poles of sufficient thickness and size in relation to the feet, do not use thin perches and poles. Commercial perches are available which are made of rough material which helps
prevent calluses of the feet. Never use chains to tie the legs, these are the cause of frequent fractures. Harnesses (as for cats and dogs) are available to assist in handling, but harnesses should not be left on permanently or whilst the bird is unattended. A thick ‘limestone’, secured
in the cage is a must and will help maintain a healthy beak and prevent overgrowth. The beak does contain nerve endings which extend practically to the tip of the beak, therefore a beak should only be trimmed by someone experienced in doing so, otherwise the bird could be subjected to great pain. As well as a tool for picking and dealing with its food, the beak (and tongue) is used by a parrot as a method of greeting. Equip your bird’s cage with ‘safe’ toys and gadgets: ropes, bells, mirrors etc, to prevent boredom. They need things they can ‘chop and destroy’ which they do naturally (eg hardwood and rope). Reposition toys once a month, this prevents the stereotypical repetitive movements often exhibited by caged birds.
This article was published in Costa Blanca News.
Los recién nacidos dependen totalmente de la madre y si ella no puede, habrá que criarlos a mano.
Los recién nacidos dependen totalmente de la madre y si ella no puede, habrá que criarlos a mano. A continuación os diré algunos de los aspectos básicos que hay que tener en cuenta para que crezcan bién. Estos aspectos son:
La malformación de los dientes incisivos es un problema que suelen padecer nuestros pequeños lagomorfos y sobre el cual debemos estar atentos.
El cuidado de los dientes en conejos es muy importante. Revisarlos de forma periódica para determinar que tienen buena alineación, que están blancos y no presentan manchas ni signos de ninguna afección es crucial en el desarrollo de los conejos. El suministrarles una dieta variada y material para que puedan roer ayuda a que esos dientes se encuentren siempre en perfecto estado. La aparición de alteraciones dentarias suele estar relacionado con factores genéticos, infecciones dentales y traumas que provocan rotura y desplazamiento de la raíz del diente. Esta patología es más frecuente conforme el conejo es más pequeño por lo que con la llegada de los conejos enanos, que son más chatos, ha aumentado mucho la presencia de dicho problema en la consulta diaria.
Por lo general lo que ocurre es que los incisivos no se posicionan correctamente con sus contrarios, es decir, no hacen un buen contacto y consecuentemente no se desgasten adecuadamente. Ésto, a la larga, ocasiona un sobrecrecimiento de las piezas dentales afectadas al ser lo conejos animales que presentan crecimiento continuo de los dientes durante toda su vida. Por término medio pueden crecerles alrededor de unos 10 centímetros anuales. Una vez que se ha empezado a desarrollar la malformación los conejos pierden capacidad de limpieza y tienen más dificultades para comer correctamente.
En muchas ocasiones esa mala oclusión de los incisivos conlleva alteraciones también en las muelas por lo que debemos tomar medidas cuanto antes para evitar un mal mayor.
En la mayoría de casos es necesaria la cirugía para poder solucionar éste problema. La extracción de los incisivos en conejos no ocasiona ningún trauma para nuestro pequeño amigo pues al tener labios prensiles pueden seguir introduciéndose la comida en la boca. Si habrá que tener una pequeña deferencia con ellos y es que las verduras ya no se las podremos ofrecer enteras si no que habrá que cortarlas en pequeños trozos para que se las puedan introducir en la boca.
Recientemente se acaba de descubrir que los perros mayores tienen alteraciones del comportamiento como los humanos mayores. Podemos ayudarles, al igual que se hace con los humanos, con una nueva medicación que ha aparecido en el mercado recientemente.
Antes de tratarle es necesario ver el grado de disfunción congnitiva que presenta el paciente.
Si lo desea, imprima este formulario, rellénelo y nos lo entrega en su próxima visita a nuestro centro.
By Jose V Griñan
Owning a snake as a pet obviously depends on the species (venomous or non-venomous), the size to which the reptile is expected to grow and the repercussions in terms of its feeding and maintenance.
It must be remembered that snakes are carnivorous and the bigger they get the harder they are to handle especially if you have other pets or small children in the home.
Apart from a few people who have a special interest in venomous snakes, the majority of pet snakes are pythons or non-venomous small snakes.
When it comes to pythons these can be broken down into types such as the Royal Python, the most docile, smallest and easiest to handle up to the largest piones molurus and the python reticulates which can grow to sizes in excess of five metres-long.
The last two groups vary in their level of aggressiveness and in the way they can be handled. These larger snakes are not always docile and they do have a painful bite and the power to constrict which they trend to do when they are handled.
Carnivorous reptiles, as their name indicates, have high protein diets. Their feed should live so that they maintain their hunting instincts. They can also be taught to eat meat that has been previously frozen.
The needs of each snake depend entirely on its size and feeding a 25 kilogramme python is far removed from feeding a 15 gram turtle.
Each snake has different requirements so varying the diet between live feed, tinned meat, dried food, pieces of liver, meat, fish and eggs is necessary.
Do not forget that the best food is the type they would find in their natural habitat such as all types of insects (worms and beetles) as well as seafood such as prawns.
………..en confección ……….
